Exploring Outdoor Attractions in the Hot Springs Area

Submitted to the Piney Woods Journal in 2019

Hot Springs has been a popular vacation and holiday destination for well over a century. Beyond the obvious allure of its springs and bath treatments, I remember many of my father's friends and coworkers choosing their vacations in the 50s and 60s to coincide with the spring thoroughbred horse racing season at Oaklawn Park.  It could have been many years though for some, like me, to get a chance to return to the resort city and the beautiful Ouachita Mountains.  

I chose a long November weekend, as the leaves were turning their fall colors, to visit.  My intention for was to tour more recently-developed outdoor sites in the area.  Watching the TV broadcast of the big LSU-Alabama football game on a Saturday afternoon intruded just briefly in those activities. With more time, I would have gone back to the Mountain Tower and the many miles of trails in the Hot Springs National Park, explored the four bike trails scattered around the town, and checked out Lake Catherine  and Lake Ouachita State Parks.  I did spend an hour or so walking the old Bathhouse Row and the scenic Promenade above the bathhouses, but nostalgia took a poor second to my desire for actual discovery.

Garvan Woodland Gardens located on Lake Hamilton just a bit southeast of the city was my first priority. Verna Cook Garvin began in the fifties to develop this property as a garden and extensively planted specimens over the next forty years.  The property was bequeathed upon her death in 1993 to the Department of Landscape Architecture through the University of Arkansas Foundation. Now an independent department of the University's Fay Jones School of Architecture and Design, the Gardens continue to improve with the support of Arkansas governmental agencies, many generous private donors, and more than 3,500 members.

The lakeside location, size and diversity of the different gardens in Garvan are truly impressive.  The Weyerhaeuser Bonsai Garden, the rock and stream Garden of the Pine Wind, the Southern Inspiration Garden, the Flowering Borders Garden, and the Evans Children’s Adventure Garden are some of separate gardens at Garvan.  One unusual design feature in the Children’s Adventure Garden is the recently completed Bob and Sunny Evans Tree House.  The three-story, suspended house is reached by an elevated walkway.  

Just outside the main gardens area at Garvan is the renowned Anthony Chapel, Arkansas’s premier wedding venue. A complex truss system for the 60-foot high chapel mimics surrounding trees and branches. Changing positions of the sun throughout the day cause a shifting pattern of lights and shadows in and surrounding the chapel.  

 

Connected to main peninsula of Garvan with its busy flow of strolling visitors is the more remote Hixon Nature Preserve with an almost two-mile long trail around this preserve.  This trail, the mile-long Woodland Garden Trail loop to the Perry Wildflower Overlook, and the trails within the different Garvan gardens  give even very fit visitors plenty of hiking exercise.   

My next priority was the relatively new Historic Baseball Trail that winds through Hot Springs.  The multiple attractions found in Hot Springs lured many early major league baseball stars, such as Babe Ruth and Cy Young, to do their spring training and partying there.  Major league baseball spring training in Hot Springs began in 1886 with National League’s Chicago White Stockings escaping the colder weather in the North to train for their upcoming season.  This tradition of spring training lasted until the 1940s.  A series of historical markers linked to digital technology allows city visitors to see places where the greatest baseball stars stayed and played.  The cast-aluminum plaques include the spot where Babe Ruth in 1918 smacked a home run that traveled an unbelievable 573 feet and landed in a pit at the Arkansas Alligator Farm.  The baseball trail’s website allows access to a complete list of the 30 or so plaques that provide more information on particular players and ballfields.  As a Boston Red Sox fan since Ted Williams roamed left field at Fenway Park, I chose the plaque of his contemporary legend, Stan Musial, to photograph and share. 

Unlike other state parks that tourists have long visited in the Hot Springs area, DeGray Lake Resort State Park was established in 1974 and is Arkansas’s only resort state park.  Nestled along the north shore of 13,800-acre DeGray Lake and south of the city of Hot Springs about 20 miles, a wide variety of outdoor adventures and resort class amenities are available. Nature activities include lake cruises, kayak tours, the championship 18-hole golf course, fishing alternatives, horseback riding, disc golf, tennis and basketball courts, and hiking and biking trails.  Lodging and camping options there include yurts (acronym for year-round universal recreation tents) that are insulated and sit on a deck.  This was my first visit to DeGray, and I had limited time only to inspect the golf course and stroll along one of the shorter trails by the lake.  I’ll be back there when I get any opportunity though.

My last stop in this Hot Springs area trip was a very well-known state park that somehow I had never visited.  Perhaps its location in Murfreesboro, 55 miles to the southwest of Hot Springs and off my normal travel routes and agendas, was the only reason for this.  Otherwise my curiosity about the Crater of Diamonds would have long ago led me there.  Recent publicity about several two and three-carat diamond finds in 2019 might also have encouraged me to make a special effort to go there this trip.  I spent an interesting 90 minutes alone at the visitor center touring the many exhibits and learning about the history and geology of the crater.  Heavy rainfall that day though turned the diamond field into a slippery, muddy mess that prevented my longshot chance of finding a valuable gem.   

Hot Springs and the surrounding area seem to offer more diverse outdoor and recreational options than any other destination spot within an easy day’s drive.   You would have to spend many days or take several trips there to experience most of these attractions.  You still might miss a few of these, as I did when I didn’t get to take a ride on one of zip lines at Adventureworks, Hot Springs.

Wildlife and Nature Artistry in Louisiana

Submitted to the Piney Woods Journal in 2019

Many of us spend time outdoors hunting, fishing, hiking, biking or involved with other types of recreational activities. These experiences can often leave stirring memories that sustain us as we carry out our work and everyday lives. Some nature lovers are photographers who preserve their peak outdoor experiences. Photographers, such as the well-known C.C. Lockwood, have choice and composition skills that visually appeal to many others.

There’s a wide range of famous wildlife and nature artists who include Impressionists such as Monet and Cezanne as well as some of the pastoral or landscape painters in England and in the Hudson school.  John James Audubon certainly ranks high among American wildlife artists, and George Rodrique and Margaret Stones are two more acclaimed painters with Louisiana roots.  Talented taxidermists, wood turners, and duck/animal carvers can certainly be added to a listing of wildlife and nature artists.  I’m lucky to have had a large, oval wood bowl (shown above) that was crafted a decade ago by Natchitoches wood turner George Olivier and made from a huge, old black walnut tree on our Winn Parish property.  George Olivier died in 2017, but his daughter Chalon Abhol continues with woodworking in Natchitoches. 

While few probably claim to be wildlife artists themselves or even very knowledgeable art critics, many of us fall into the category of those who simply "know what we like" or what appeals to us on a very personal and intuitive basis. Placing myself firmly in that category, I'll mention a couple of additional Louisiana wildlife and nature artists who have really impressed me with their unique perspectives. Both of these two artists were born and raised in faraway Idaho and worked as rangers or volunteers in Pacific Northwest wilderness areas before moving in later years to work in Louisiana.

Rick Kom has been pursuing wildlife art on a full-time basis since 2001.  He employs a unique etching approach that is similar in some ways to scrimshaw artists who work with ivory.  He employs a sewing needle to etch carefully through a black India ink surface to a layer of white kaolin clay underneath. Opaque watercolors are then gently brushed into the exposed clay lines. This approach yields wildlife subjects that have vivid and life-like appearances.  Rick has an exceptional range of wildlife subjects, beyond my photos of his dragonfly, heron, and black bear subjects.   

Joan Schroeder moved to Louisiana about 20 years and has long been accomplished in many different forms of art, including watercolors, oils, bronze sculpting, ceramics, welding, fabrics and quilting.  Joan taught high school art for many years and was an art gallery owner at one time.  Her intense interest in recent years has been portraying swamp scenes and tree subjects on quilts. She starts all of her art work by sketching from her observations or from photos that she or others have made.  Joan spends eight-hour days for a month or more on projects and admits to having somewhat of a careful or “perfectionist” approach to the artistic process.  Her work has been accepted and appeared at numerous national and regional exhibitions.  I’ve included a photo of Joan posing over one of her sketches of several cypress trees that will eventually be incorporated into a large quilt.  Also shown are photos of two completed quilts of hers, both with swamp tree subjects and from recent quilt exhibitions.   

Nature art by Joan and by Rick appeals to my own personal taste, but may not interest others nearly as much as other Louisiana artists.  I encourage each of you to go online yourself to discover many of our state wildlife artists, to find a few of these artists whose work has very strong appeal to you, and to support their artistry in at least some limited way.

Additional Views and Responses to the Challenges of State Climate Change

Submitted to the Piney Woods Journal as the last of a three-part series on climate change 

I’ve provided an overview of climate change issues and suggested possible responses to these challenges by several key sectors in our state economy in the last two PWJ issues.  The oil and gas industry, as well as forestry and agriculture, in Louisiana were profiled.

These sectors of our state economy are hardly the only ones that face serious climate threats and could offer many opportunities for green innovations and jobs.  There seem at least two other important industries in our state worth examining.   I’ll briefly mention these two industries and finally share some recent perspectives of state leaders concerning climate change issues.      

Building Construction

Estimates of the energy generated by the building sector worldwide reach over 30 percent of all energy generated, so efficiencies in heating/cooling and other energy needs can make a big difference. The construction industry in Louisiana is a significant economic powerhouse with employment levels at approximately 140,000 for mid-2019, according to the US Bureau of Labor Statistics. 

Architecture and engineering needs are essential components in the completion of state commercial buildings and residential housing.  Many in these fields internationally are developing and implementing efforts to make buildings and our infrastructure more ecologically sustainable, thus reducing greenhouse gas emissions.  Climate changes are also influencing the development of alternative structure designs, construction materials, and building approaches that better protect these structures from extreme weather conditions.

Many recent and larger commercial buildings have forms of a centralized, computer-based monitoring and control system for more efficient energy usage.   Older buildings can be retrofitted to incorporate some of these energy savings benefits.  Project Drawdown describes “net zero buildings” that make much increased use of LEDs (light emitting diodes) to replace incandescent and florescent lighting, as well as have smart windows, smart thermostats, efficient heat pumps, improved insulation and building materials, and advanced automated control systems.

These newer approaches tend to have increased initial costs, but also usually have long-term and ecological advantages and paybacks.  Building and construction contracts are often reviewed and approved by government officials who analyze quality, cost, and other factors.  As climate change and greenhouse emission priorities become greater, we can definitely expect mandates or more demanding requirements for architectural, engineering, and construction designs and methods.

Seafood and Seaweed

Susan Buchanan described in a February 2019 article in the Louisiana Weekly how climate change was hurting Louisiana’s oyster and shrimping operations. Both oyster and shrimp output put Louisiana at or near the top among the states. Rising water levels, continuing coastal erosion, and increasing concerns for the purity, temperature, and salinity levels of water are threats for our seafood industry. 

There seems potential in the next decade for Louisiana and states along the Gulf of Mexico to begin to develop seaweed farming operations. Types of seaweed can grow rapidly to provide plant-based proteins for livestock and human consumption, and seaweed could become more of a biofuel source and replacement for fossil fuels. Seaweed farming is still very limited in the USA, largely to a number of firms operating along the Atlantic coast. Seaweed is one component of “restorative ocean/gulf farming” that seeks to improve the quality of offshore waters through more integrated aquaculture systems combining production of seaweed, fish, shrimp and shellfish. 

Aquatic polycultures or multiple crops for ocean farming could help diversify risk for some of those investing and working in the seafood industry, if some of the current questions being investigated are answered.  Auburn University researchers are currently studying the development of sustainable seaweed aquaculture on Alabama’s Gulf coast. Among issues pursued in this research are more appropriate seaweed varietals for gulf cultivation, market acceptance of these varietals by consumers, and potential of seaweed aquaculture there both as a standalone farm or in an integrated system with oysters. Louisiana would appear to have more raw potential than a state like Alabama for such combined seafood and seaweed farming.

Leadership Perspectives

Millions of children internationally have been protesting and striking their schools in recent months to try to bring about increased government and business responsiveness to climate change threats.  Louisiana has much more impact than almost any other state on greenhouse gas releases.  According to a U.S. Energy Information Administration report this year, Louisiana is in the top five states overall and also per capita in energy-related CO2 emission levels for the most recent period of reported data.  Taking also into account methane and other greenhouse gas emissions and other contributing sectors of our state’s economy, Louisiana must accept very high-profile impacts and responsibilities.

Yet we are just beginning to see awareness and some discussion of climate change and its threats by state leaders.  Sue Lincoln in an August 2019 feature in The Bayou Brief described remarks made by Mike Strain, our incumbent state Agriculture Commissioner.  Commissioner Strain has at least openly acknowledged the challenge of climate change and some of the impacts that it is having on Louisiana. His comments so far, though, seem directed more at new crop opportunities due to warmer temperatures.  He has also emphasized various regulatory and other obstacles in easily converting to alternative crops and practices that have been suggested as more climate friendly.

CBS Miami reported earlier this year that Dr. Julia Nesheiwat had been appointed by Governor Ron DeSantis to be Florida’s first Chief Resilience Officer.  Her job is to coordinate the state’s responses to climate change and to work with various state agencies, local communities and other key stakeholders.

In Louisiana, there has been recognition of certain urgent needs linked to climate change.  For example, we have had funding of $300 million over three years for coastal erosion projects.  These funds come from offshore oil and gas drilling income.  Governor Edwards has also committed to spending many millions of dollars from last year’s state surplus on coastal restoration work.  He views the threat to the several million people who live and work along our coast as having “a sense of urgency that we just cannot escape.” Still, his public comments concerning other broader aspects of climate change and greenhouse gas emissions have only recently shown a few signs of shifting concern.

Julie Dermansky of the DeSmogBlog in December 2018 interviewed former General Russell Honore, founder of the GreenARMY, a coalition of Louisiana environmental groups.  General Honore lamented the lack of response yet by Louisiana politicians to warnings found in the latest National Climate Assessment.  For General Honore and those committed to more environmentally-conscious state business and government policies, inaction and delays on climate challenges continue to be deeply troubling.  The tide of public concern on these issues is definitely growing, though.  Many of those in higher government and business positions will have to accelerate their green learning and actual commitments to catch up with increasing global and national responses.