Bastrop, Chemin-A-Haut State Park, and Bussey Brake Reservoir (2022)
Decades ago, my friends and I would fish Bayou and Lake D’Arbonne, Cheniere Lake, Bayou DeSiard, Black Bayou, Lake Bruin, and Toledo Bend. Of course, I had friends who would brag about superior fishing at Bussey Brake and along Bayou Bartholomew, but I never found the opportunity back then to travel in that direction for fishing.
I have profiled many Louisiana state parks, and a few in Texas, Arkansas, and Mississippi, for the Piney Woods Journal. Among the state parks that I had yet to visit was Chemin-A-Haut State Park. Given its reputation and as one of the first state parks in Louisiana, the park had been on my short list of desired destinations. Early May offered a good opportunity to spend time there and elsewhere in the Bastrop area.
Those searching for a family weekend hub offering interesting outdoor and wildlife venues should seriously consider Bastrop. The Monroe area isn’t that far away, has many parks and outdoor resources, and more accommodation possibilities, so Bastrop might be overlooked. Staying in Bastrop or at Chemin-A-Haut State Park, though, you can avoid the back-and-forth mileage from Monroe to several captivating spots north of Bastrop.
Within 30 miles of Bastrop also are the Black Bayou National Wildlife Refuge to the south and the Upper Ouachita National Wildlife Refuge to the east. The Starr Homeplace Heritage and Creativity Center in Oak Ridge is even closer and provides a unique blend of the past and new directions for agricultural and industrial practices. A museum of 19 buildings features architecture, equipment, and tools of rural Southerners over the last two centuries. Websites for the two refuges and the Starr Homeplace can supply details for arranging visits.
My focus this time was Chemin-A-Haut State Park and Bussey Brake Reservoir. I’d recently purchased an inexpensive and lightweight 8’6” kayak. My older Grand Cayman tandem kayak has been fine for outings with a companion, but I wanted an easier-to-haul alternative to put in my Accent hatchback for solo adventures. A trip to this state park and the nearby reservoir would provide a chance to break in the small kayak.
My first stop and day was at Bussey Brake Reservoir. This LDWF Wildlife Management Area was donated in 2013 by International Paper. The reservoir had been an emergency water supply for the Bastrop mill that was no longer needed when the mill closed in 2010. After draining much of the lake some years ago, new fishing piers and a dock were constructed. Largemouth bass, crappie, and bluegill were stocked there in 2017. I decided to christen my little kayak at a boat launch on the north side of the reservoir to get my first crack at catching bream and sunfish this year. The kayak performed well, despite my below-average haul of fish. I merely chalked this up to my inexperience there and a windy day.
My next day was dedicated to exploring Chemin-A-Haut, primarily its hiking trails and kayaking venues. The state park compares favorably with other state parks that I’ve visited in terms of facilities. It scores even higher for its visual and sensory beauty, whether from its waterways or along elevated trails that overlook Bayou Bartholomew, Big Slough Lake, and the cypress-tupelo swamps there.
Beyond camping and RV hookups, the park has six vacation cabins and eight deluxe cabins. The deluxe cabins are on Big Slough Lake, and each has two bedrooms, a rear deck, and sleep up to eight people. A group camp in the park can accommodate up to 38 guests, dormitory style. The group camp and meeting room each have a kitchen/dining area for possible events. Facilities include a bathhouse and pool open from Memorial to Labor Day, a nature center, two playgrounds for kids, a sand volleyball court and a horseshoe pit. A ranger informed me that the park’s amphitheater is being reconstructed and should be available in the future. Kayak, canoe, and golf cart rentals are also available for park sightseers.
The trail system at Chemin-A-Haut includes the Nick Cox Memorial Horse Trail that runs through the park and proceeds north for many miles to the Chemin-A-Haut Creek Bridge. A half-mile “Story Walk” is designed for children to promote both literacy and fitness. Signs are posted about every 75 yards along this kid’s trail to capture the interest of those in kindergarten and early elementary grades. In addition to the Bobcat Trail (1.1 miles) and Boy Scout Trail (1/4 mile), the Cypress Trail extends along one side of Big Slough Lake.
A prime visitor attraction at Chemin-A-Haut State Park has been the ancient cypress trees along Chemin-A-Haut Creek. Probably saved from logging long ago by their placement in this difficult-to-access creek, the more spectacular of these ancient trees are estimated to be 1000 years or older. Kayaking or canoeing from the park’s launching area to the more famous trees with names such as The Castle, The Jester, and Old Stumpy can be fairly easy or more challenging. Higher water and going upstream on Bayou Bartholomew with a steady headwind most of the way meant more work and time than I anticipated. The payoff was well worth the paddling exercise, though, and the trip back to the park was a fast one.
Trying to visit many state parks and wildlife refuges presents a dilemma for me. Do I use available time to revisit more interesting sites, like Chemin-A-Haut, that deserve more than an initial trip, or do I travel to parts and parks unexplored? I’ve probably erred toward the never seen over the past five years.
If PWJ readers have strong recommendations about outstanding hiking, biking, or kayaking experiences, please let me know at steve-payne1@live.com. Some of these sites recommended I might have explored before, but others might result in a visit and inspiration for a future PWJ article.
Photos: 1) State park entrance 2) Park nature center 3) Park kayak launching sign 4) Stop on park's Story Walk Trail 5) Ancient Castle Tree
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